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Rug Hooking Magazine
Debra Smith, Editor

Stackpole Magazines
5067 Ritter Rd.
Mechanicsburg, PA 17055

For comments related to the content of the magazine, contact the editor at:
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dhsmith@
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June July August 2010 , Volume XXI , Issue 1
Clover Chair Pad

Laurie Lausen

Do you remember picking dandelions, violets, and clover for your Mom? When I was young, the neighborhood children made dandelion chains and clover chains that stretched clear around our city block. Childhood memories of simpler times inspired this simple mat.

 

 

 

Step 1: Transfer the pattern

Transfer the pattern to your choice of foundation fabric by using a light box or, my favorite, Red Dot Tracer and a permanent marker. Lay the Red Dot on top of the paper pattern and trace the design with a marker. Now, move the Red Dot to your foundation, centering the design on the backing and lining up the dots with the threads of the fabric, to keep on grain. With the marker, go over all the lines again; the marker will bleed through to the foundation. Depending on how old your marker is, you may need to touch up the lines after removing the Red Dot pattern.

 

On round or oval rugs, I like to sew a row of zigzag stitching just outside the outer border line to maintain the round shape of my mat. If you like to sew on twill rug binding on before hooking, you won’t need stay-stitching: the binding will serve the same purpose.

 

Step 2: Prepare the wool

I used a #8 (1/4") cut, hand trimming the strips if necessary, but you can use whatever size strip you like.  The wools used in this mat are a mix of my hand-dyed textures and solids.

 

Step 3: Hook Clover, the bunny

Begin by outlining and filling in Clover’s tail with dirty white wool. Outline Clover’s body with grungy hound’s-tooth check wool, changing to a few loops of apple cider wool for the nose. Clover’s inner ear is hooked with the same apple cider wool. (Yes, I know his ears are a bit wonky; change them if you like.) Fill in the body with stone textured wool. Clover’s eye is hooked with dark plaid background wool—just two tails. Marry a starting tail with an end of the stone wool. Then pull up an ending tail and start another strip of stone in the same hole.

 

Step 4: Hook stems and flowers

Hook the flower stems with the sage over plaid wool. The flowers are outlined and the top portions are hooked with mottled mist wool. Fill the bases of the flowers with the same dirty white as Clover’s tail. Just for fun, I reversed this order on the flower just above Clover’s ears. To help hold the shape when hooking the flowers, hook a row of background wool next to the outline row, then fill in the flower. I wanted my flowers to be a bit rough around the edges, but if you prefer crisper points, use a smaller cut of wool for outlining or hand trim your strips to narrow them. Another trick for great points: put your hook in at the point, hold your wool strip underneath, and pull up a loop from the center of the strip, leaving two lengths, one to be worked off in each direction from the point.

 

Step 5: Hook the background

Before hooking all the background, hook one row just inside the outer border line using the background plaid. Hook a hit-n-miss beauty line just inside this row. Randomly hook in bits of prairie gold, old blue paint, apple cider, sage, and mist. Finish hooking the background, echoing the elements.

 

Step 6: Blocking

After the hooking is complete, block your mat by laying it face down on a fluffy towel, covering it with a press cloth or flour sack dish towel, and steam it with an iron. Press the iron down gently; don’t iron back and forth. Allow the mat to cool and dry.

 

Step 7: Finishing 

My preferred method is a whipped corded edge. I know some of you cringe at the thought, but I like the way it cushions the raw edge of the last hooked row. Before trimming the excess foundation, I zigzag stitch about 11/2" out around the last hooked row, then trim the backing away. I use a 5/32" cotton cording. Place the cording behind the backing and fold the edge over. Baste it in place. The basting stitches should lie in the ditch between the last hooked row and the cording. The cording should be beside the last row of loops not under it.

 

Thread a large eye tapestry needle with yarn. Secure the yarn by running the needle under the backing for an inch or so, then begin whipping. Whip around the corded edge by placing the needle in close to the last hooked row. Stitches should be close together so no backing shows through. To join a new length of yarn, stop when you have a few inches of yarn left and thread this tail back under the stitches you have just completed. Remove the needle and thread a new piece of yarn. Run the needle under a few inches of completed stitches, being careful not to catch the tail you just hid, and continue whipping around the rug. Trim off any tails close to the stitches.

 

With matching thread, stitch the twill binding tape around the outer edge, slightly covering the yarn binding, Stitch the inner edge in place covering any foundation edges. On the round mat, the twill tape will naturally form little pleats; try to space these pleats evenly. Steam the finished piece again, if necessary.

 

Dye Recipes

Dried Thyme

 

The background is a dark brown plaid that I overdyed with this drab greenish brown.

For 1/2 yard of wool, mix the following in 1 c. boiling water:

  1/2 tsp. PRO Chem 119 Sun Yellow or Cushing Lemon

  1/8 tsp. PRO Chem 672 Jet Black or Cushing Black

  1/16 tsp. PRO Chem 338 Magenta or Cushing Cherry Mist

 

The clover blossoms are hooked with a mottled piece that was dyed over a fat quarter of natural or white wool.

Mix the following in 1 c. boiling water:

  1/32 tsp. Cushing Plum

  1/128 tsp. Cushing Bronze

  In another 1 c. boiling water, dissolve 1/128 tsp. Cushing Taupe

 

Place the wool in a pot with a small amount of water, just enough to barely cover the wool. Pour the plum/bronze dye solution over wool, leaving some bare areas. Push the wool down to fully immerse it in water. When the water is almost clear, drizzle on the taupe dye to spot the wool. Add citric acid or vinegar, and simmer until the water is clear.

 

 

Materials

  24" x 24" linen or monk’s cloth

  15" x 15" piece Red Dot Tracer or light box                 

  Permanent marker                

  Wool yarn for whipped edge    

 

Optional for finishing:

-          48" twill binding tape

-          44" cotton cording         

 

 

Wools:

 

Dried Thyme over           32"x 16" less than          Background &

brown plaid                    1 fat 1/4 & 1 fat 1/8        Clover’s Eye     

 

Grungy hound’s tooth     3" x 16"                         Bunny - Outline

 

Stone over natural          14" x 16" slightly more   Bunny - Body

herringbone                   than 1 fat 1/8th                                       

 

Dirty White                    3" x 16" Bunny               Tail & Flowers   

Apple Cider                   2" x 16" Bunny               Ear, Nose, Beauty Line             

Sage over plaid              2" x 16"                         Stems & Beauty Line

Mist                              7" x 16"                         Clover Buds & Beauty Line        

Prairie Gold                   2 or 3 (16") strips           Beauty Line

Old Blue Paint               2 or 3 (16") strips           Beauty Line      

Sage over plaid              2 or 3 (16") strips           Beauty Line      

Apple Cider                   2 or 3 (16") strips           Beauty Line      

Mist                              2 or 3 (16") strips           Beauty Line      

 

 

To order a pattern or a complete kit, contact Rug Hooking magazine, 5067 Ritter Road, Mechanicsburg, PA 17055; 1-877-462-2604. The cost of a hand-drawn pattern printed on linen is $34 plus $5.95 shipping. The cost for the kit, which includes hand-drawn pattern on linen and uncut wool, is $110 plus $12.50 shipping. This pattern is for personal use only. Reselling of the pattern is prohibited.